Weekend Escapes: Eat Your Way Through Montreal

by Sasha Levine

Weekend Escapes: Eat Your Way Through Montreal. Written for lifestylemiror.com. Published January 7, 2013.

After the holidays and required family time, you could use a break. The catch? You’ve used up all your vacation days.

For those looking for a place that feels far away, there’s always Montreal—that taste of France that’s a quick plane ride away.

From January 18 to March 24, Montreal is hosting its Snow Village, fully outfitted with an ice hotel, ice chapel, and ice bar. But for those faint of heart, there’s always the underground city, or a Canada Goose parka, to keep you warm and out of the chill. Check out our perfect weekend agenda.

FRIDAY: EASE IN

5 P.M. Warm up to the city at Bota Bota, an old ferryboat turned sleek, modern spa. Relax and rejuvenate for hours in the water circuit, and take in the views from the spa’s outdoor hot tubs as the sun sets over the old city.

8:30 P.M. Grab dinner at Garde Manger, the flagship restaurant of the Cooking Channel’s Chuck Hughes. (His new brasserie, Le Bremner, is just a few blocks away if you can’t get a seat at Garde Manger.) To pregame a raucous night out, try trendy spots like Santos tapas bar, or leave the neighborhood for Wood35 for a DJ-spun dinner.

10:30 P.M. Kick it in the historic Old Port section of the city and saddle up to the bar at Philémon. Watch hipster bartenders mix classic drinks from the barstools that surround them like a playpen, or grab a table off to the side for some intimate conversation in this low-key environment.

SATURDAY: CHOW DOWN

10 A.M. Start the day with coffee, pastries, and people watching at Olive et Gourmando. It might be billed as a health foods café, but there’s no question its brioche, brownies, and croissants are deadly decadent. (And there’s often a line out the door to prove it.)

11 A.M. Bundle up and get your walking shoes on. Start with the Notre-Dame Basilica for an exemplary piece of gothic revival architecture, and an exceptionally colorful sanctuary. Make a pit stop at Canadian Maple Delights to taste the country’s pride in the form of a variety of maple treats—vinegars, ice creams, spreads, candies, and syrups. Wander down Rue Saint Paul and neighboring streets for some very modern men’s and women’s shopping, including Espace Pepin, Quai 417, Cahier d’Exercices, Rooney, Michel Brisson, and Reborn.

1:30 P.M. Hop on the clean and quiet public transit to Schwartz’s Deli in Mont Royal for the city’s signature smoked meat. For dessert, stop at Patisserie Au Kouign Amann for a taste of the bakery’s eponymous pastry, which has been described as “like a croissant multiplied with a stick of butter.”

3 P.M. Head west toward the neighboring ‘hood of Mile End, home to indie musicians like Arcade Fire and Grimes. Stop by St-Viateur Bagel to try the last of Montreal’s famous delicacies, or at least get a glimpse of how they’re prepared (read: flung, still steaming, high into the air).

5 P.M. Continue on your moveable feast to Little Italy and check out the year-round Jean-Talon Market. Marvel at the number of small fromagerie and charcuterie, and taste endless amounts of produce.

9:30 P.M. After a siesta, grab dinner at the deliciously rich Au Pied de Cochon by chef Martin Picard. While it’s possible to eat light—a tomato tartlet or the Nova Scotian catch of the day—people usually come for the sections of the menu dedicated to foie gras and, not surprisingly, amazing pig parts.

11:30 P.M. Once you’ve found this unmarked Japanese speakeasy, take in the sexy, sleek design at Big in Japan. Sit back with a classic cocktail or bowl of the house punch—or do as the bar’s namesake suggests and buy a bottle of Suntory Single Malt or Yamazaki to sip and store for future visits.

1:30 A.M. Sweat off the day’s indulgences with some electronic music and late-night dancing at Le Salon Daome. For something more dive-y and sans cover, hit Salon Officiel with familiar ’80s music videos projected on the wall.

SUNDAY: RECHARGE

11 A.M. Roll out of bed for a lazy brunch at La Fabrique Bistrot and enjoy the view of the open kitchen set in the center of this hip, bare bones restaurant. While the savory options like “Le Toast” with egg, pork, and duck fat fries are a great way to fend off the cold, the brioche with raspberries and maple syrup are a crime to miss.

1 P.M. Seek some culture at the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts and explore its permanent collection of Canadian artists along side a selection of John Currins, Gerhard Richters, and more.

3 P.M. Grab a quick lunch at Laika for a final taste of the city’s vibe. Join the crowd as cool young locals sip coffee, work on laptops, or meet up with friends in this versatile no-frills hot spot.

5 P.M. Bon voyage!